jack
New Member
Posts: 12
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Post by jack on Jul 2, 2006 13:14:42 GMT -5
Has anyone replaced their cabin sole? Our 1969 P-35 has the original vinyl "wood" look alike. After 36 years it is starting to fold up around the edges. Has anyone tried to remove this stuff from their boat? Did it come-up? Was it a usable templet? What did you replace it with? We would appreciate any advise/direction. Thanks, jack&alice WEETAMOE
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Post by bbkaptin on Oct 23, 2006 14:05:17 GMT -5
Any luck with your cabin sole. I have a 68 p-35 and in the process of rebuilding I'm going to have to deal with the same problem. any info on that project would be great. Can be e-mailed at bbkaptin@bellsouth.net Bruce and Toye
SEATOYE TOO
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Post by seaner97 on Jun 8, 2012 13:50:22 GMT -5
Would love to hear how you both did this and what you used. I've got #32 and this was my next step in bringing her back to former glory.
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Post by Peter O on Jun 11, 2012 12:20:29 GMT -5
After i get the galley done, next thing to tackle is the sole. PO installed engine 10" into galley with sawzall'd hole to match. Moved the engine back to where it belongs but now have gaping hole. Will fill that with 3/4" plywood scabbed in but it will look like crap. The plastic trim around all the access hatches is breaking up and some areas are delaminating.
Have been thinking about using bamboo T&G flooring. It's a light color, hard as nails and relatively affordable. I was considering teak plywood with the holly strips embossed on it. Think all the nooks and crannies that will have to be cut into it would be a major installation issue and a cutting error very costly. Going with solid teak boards is an option but expensive. Could get by with 3/8" thick materilal, if it's available, to cut down on cost. Hopefully it would work with straight boards and not need to be custom milled into T&G.
Interested in hearing what others are thinking about how they are going to redo the sole.
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Post by seaner97 on Jul 3, 2013 14:08:12 GMT -5
Just finished. Went with 3/8 t&g Brazilian teak from lumber liquidators and had local wooden boat boys mill me some 1/2" face t&g for the holly. Pulled the subfloor and replaced with 1/2" ply to keep headroom except in the v berth where it's d**n short anyway. Epoxied down, sealed three sides and working on floor varnishing for the finish (two coats down so far). Regarding the "plastic wood"- came up easy, but in irregular pieces, and heat gun to remove the glue. Definitely need to template with something else.
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Post by rayschmidt on Aug 17, 2013 19:53:32 GMT -5
In 2006, while rebuilding Sun Dancer Hull #4, the sole came off easily since it was under fresh water for a year. The structure underneath was in excellent condition. I simply covered it with Nautilex wood grain pattern. Lived 3 winters in Florida on board and after 7 years it is starting to wear. Maybe 2-3 years from now it will need replacing. FYI, the local boatyard has a better adhesive than the Nautilex adhesive. I can find the name if you are interested. rayschmidt41@verizon.net.
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Post by Sailorbrit on Apr 26, 2022 6:47:21 GMT -5
seaner97 I guess you will have finished the sole now.
Question: on completion was the varnish slippy, safe enough to walk on without skidding? The Holly and Teak price is more than my purse will allow - just under $500 for an 4x8' sheet and we need 2. Instead, I have stripped the old varnish and am about to put new spar varnish down but hubby insists it will be dangerous.
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Post by seaner97 on May 7, 2022 13:56:08 GMT -5
I used a satin finish spar varnish (le tonknois as I was doing the exterior brightwork with it anyway) and it can get a bit slippy when wet, but you can use the old sprinkle the salt into the topcoat routine to give it good grip without losing the finish. I found a clear spray on grip from Krylon, I think, that I used on the companionway. You can't tell when you look at it, but it has almost as much grip as my exterior non-skid paint.
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