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Post by svlily on Aug 30, 2015 22:25:46 GMT -5
My compression post block was totally rotted.
I've removed the wood block and cut out all the (parted) fiberglass surrounding it, but what to replace it with? It is about 2.5 inches thick. Teak blocks seem a waste and fiberglass doesn't attach to teak so well so I can't glass it back onto the keel Suggestions? It takes SOME weight but most of the mast weight is borne by the bulkheads and deck top, it seems. Treated pine is too soft. I need about a 5x7 x 2.5 inch sized chunk of G10 or something that can be holed for bolts and can be glassed. And take some compression.
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Post by roverhi on Sept 1, 2015 18:01:47 GMT -5
Use some sort of non compressible material that doesn't rot. A single piece of plastic or layers of plastic pinned together such as plastic decking material available at Lowes, etc should suffice. You don't need to bond to the piece, just to hold it in place horizontally. Bedding it in thickened epoxy and a couple of layers of cloth and epoxy on the sides should do just fine.
The mast support carries all the weight of the mast, the bulkhead, deck, etc. shouldn't do anything but be a horizontal support. The post is a link in that system doing the same thing as the mast if it went all the way to the keel. Think of the support post as if the mast was keel stepped. I wouldn't use any rot prone wood as it would be almost guaranteed to disintegrate quickly. The piece is in the bilge where it will spend a lot of time wet.
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Post by seaner97 on Sept 2, 2015 12:22:00 GMT -5
G10 or Coosa Bluewater composite would be my choice. Mine was fully glassed in, but I'm going to pull it out this offseason and do the same to be certain it never needs to be done again.
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Post by svlily on Sept 3, 2015 19:15:40 GMT -5
Thanks all - I'm going with a 2.5" thick chunk of laminated oak covered with fg, mainly because I have it already. It should last another 40 years.
The base doesn't actually take the full weight, since my compression post base block was TOTALLY rotted, the bulkheads for the head took the weight. (untabbed, btw)
The main reason why the block rotted in my boat was because of improper installation. There were no bolts or screws in the wood block that secured the compression post (not even their holes-- the compression post just sat on top of the block unsecured) and the shower pan drained right next to the block with a short hose -- stupid. It would be bad enough to drain into the bilge, they couldn't bother installing a longer drain hose to get the water there. And the block was not fully glassed over either. It came out so easily I was amazed -- great big wet rotted, wedge-shaped chunks. Just had to trim awau what was left of the surrounding FG and now ready for new block
I don't know if that's how it came from the yard or how someone finished it, but bad design.
That, and a bilge drain fitting below water line! The boat has been kept afloat all these years by a simple checkvalve -- amazing.
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Post by Graham on Feb 21, 2016 20:22:40 GMT -5
My cabin was not allinged correctly and I decided to inspect the compression block. I did not liked what I videoed. I need to go in there and change the block, which is inside a fiberglass housing which broke on one end. The block is exposed to port , or from behind.. Does any one know the best access to the area? I might even need to remove the post because, at least from what I taped today, seems rotten. Thanks!
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Post by gcastillo3 on Mar 12, 2016 16:18:34 GMT -5
The block size according to the fiberglass piece that I removed is 8x4.5 x 3 " . I will provide a better measurement once I complete squaring of the cabin. The removed pieces of the block are too compressed to Serve as reference.
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Post by Graham on Mar 20, 2016 19:12:53 GMT -5
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