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Post by rayawl on May 15, 2011 11:13:49 GMT -5
Since the engine will be out for a rebuild I would like to install a new fuel tank. The original tank was replaced with a 12 gallon tank which I find to small for cruising. What is the capacity of the original
tank? Does anyone have a tank in a different location than amidship behind the engine?
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Post by dgamble3 on Mar 13, 2013 9:11:58 GMT -5
Since the engine will be out for a rebuild I would like to install a new fuel tank. The original tank was replaced with a 12 gallon tank which I find to small for cruising. What is the capacity of the original tank? Does anyone have a tank in a different location than amidship behind the engine? the standard tank was 18 gal US. we replaced it with a custom tank that fit neatly in the same space of 22 gal us. This gives us a rang of around 160 miles with our new werterbeak 3, 36 hp motor. Anyone know how to add additional fuel tanks to increase the range??? dgamble3 |
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Post by cheeryo on Mar 14, 2013 4:50:22 GMT -5
I just replaced my 18 gal tank with a Moeller 22 gal tank. I had to modify the cradle slightly dropping it down an inch or so. The moeller tank has the fill and the vent on the same end. In my case, that was the front. When I got the boat in the water, the tank was low in the front and once the fuel reaches the vent level, it won't take anymore leaving me several gallons short in the back of the tank. The moeller tank is slightly longer but not as wide as the original. I am sure a custom tank of 24 gal or so would fit with a little modification.
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Post by FJC on Mar 22, 2013 13:27:38 GMT -5
My '76 was refitted with a 24 gallon tank placed on the starboard rear locker. i can email you pictures, let me know.
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Post by roverhi on May 25, 2013 14:28:02 GMT -5
So how do you get the tank out. Looks like for it to come out forward would have to pull the engine. The thingypit supports are in the way for a side pull out of the thingypit lockers. How did you all do it??
I've got a really manini leak that's barely detectable. Leaves a wet sheen of fuel on the bottom of the fwd stbd bottom of the tank cradle. Would ignore it but it leaves a slight fuel sheen around the boat when I pump the bilge. Afraid it will only get worse.
FWIW, emptied the fuel tank and got 19 gallons out of it. Tank must be more than 20 gallons as the tank has been leaking for several months but still had that much fuel in it.
I've got one of the original Monel tanks so hopefully it's just a solder repair as It will be sad to give up on that beautiful piece of unobtanium.
Cheeryo, what was the number of the Moeller tank that you put in.
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Post by cheeryo on May 29, 2013 5:57:26 GMT -5
The Moeller tank is #032623. It is a 23 gal. tank measuring 24x20x12. I removed my original 19 gal monel tank for cleaning 10 years ago or so through the port thingypit locker. Some dis assembly of the cradle was required but I was able to get it in and out..
My new tank was down from the front during engine replacement.
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Post by roverhi on Jul 1, 2013 21:50:58 GMT -5
The tank will come out the port side into the thingypit locker. Haven't gotten mine out yet because about an inch of the vertical support for the thingypit is in the way. Will have to trim that back and tank should slide out without any problems. Trhimming the support is going to take work as it's 2x solid mahogany. Haven't figured out whether I can get the saber saw in there to do the cutting, use the Fein multi tool or work out some repressed aggressive tendencies and beat it out with a chisel.
Hopefully it;s just a solder issue as the monel tank, at least what I can see, looks to be in great shape. The leak is actually just a seep and didn't leak more than a gallon over many months if the tank is 20 gallons.
Chanya, thanks for the info on the Moeller tank.
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Post by roverhi on Jul 19, 2013 15:10:51 GMT -5
The tank will come out into the port side locker with trimming of the thingypit support post. Unfortunately, the tank will not come out the locker hatch without cutting off the filler neck, pickup and vent fittings. Hatch is just wide enough to get the tank out but nothing else.
Used a 12v Milwaukee mini sawzall toll to cut the 2" mahogany support post. Got that tool in a kit with the Screw Driver that I really wanted. Thought it would just sit in the tool box but has been turned out to be a really handy tool for cutting everything from wood to SS bolts in hard to access locations.
Back to the drawing boards. Will have to try and get tank out forward through the engine compartment. At first look, seems like the engine will have to come out as there doesn't seem to be enough space to get the tank through the aft engine room bulkhead and over the engine. Width is also dicey because of the stand pipe and bulkhead cut out.
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Post by roverhi on Jul 20, 2013 0:22:53 GMT -5
Tank will not come out forward. Stand pipes for the thingypit drains are too close together by about 4". Would also have to remove the engine or drastically cut the aft engine room bulkhead to have the height to get over the engine.
I was thoroughly bummed thinking I'd have to cut up the tank to get it out. A shame since it looks like the leak is just a solder issue and really really small. Moved the tank back into the port thingypit locker in preparation to cut it up but took a closer look at it. Before when I looked at the fill tube, it had a bunch of gunk around the base and looked like it was soldered in place. Cleaned off the gunk and see that the fill neck is a separate piece screwed into a bit of soldered in place reinforcement., The same for the outlet and vent fittings. Happy days as it looks just a little work with a pipe wrench will get the tank dimension down to a size that will let it come out the locker hatch.
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Post by roverhi on Jul 21, 2013 22:15:11 GMT -5
The tank is out. It will come out the locker hatch but not without a lot of force. Had to spread the thingypit hatch side a good 1/2" toward the aft end and still it was a struggle. To get it in the proper orientation to pull out, had to remove the engine muffler to get room to rotate the tank 180 degrees and roll it 180 degrees.
The leak was so manini that I thought it might have been just the SPOT fuel return set up for the diesel engine. The PO had just drilled a hole in the fuel filler hose and stuffed the fuel return hose into it. Would have been totally bummed if the tank didn't actually leak after all that work. Now I'm just bummed because there is a leak in the seam at the forward starboard lower edge. It's so small it just wets the corner edge and would take hours to leak enough to form a drop.
Off to the local welding shop tomorrow to see if they can resolder it. Failing that, have thought about using that tank seal stuff from POR or Cream. Supposed to work fine on motorcycle tanks. The problem is cleaning out the inside of the tank. Some people have suggested suspending the tank from the rafters in the garage with bungee cords and putting a bunch of odd nuts and bolts in the tank and bouncing it around.
FWIW, the tank on 1969 P35 is 30 gallons.
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Post by roverhi on Aug 11, 2013 17:13:42 GMT -5
Hopefully the last installment. Leak in Monel tank turns out to be a crack in the metal near the forward stud edge. Local marine welding shop tried everything they had on hand to silver solder the crack but couidn't get the solder to hold. Were going to order a different material to solder but would make no guarantees.
Decided to go with a new aluminum tank. They made it for a reasonable $400 and claimed it took longer to fabricate than they had estimated. Had them take an inch off the height to make it easier to get through the hatch. Hopefully having square corners of the aluminum tank rather than the oval of the Monel tank will make up for most of loss in volume.
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