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Post by roverhi on Jun 1, 2015 17:45:59 GMT -5
Had a rigging survey done and the rigger set up the rigging way tighter than I had. The head door now won't close. Looks like the Mast Post Step has disintegrated. Looking at it through the floor hatch appears that it will be near impossible to work on without dismantling the head fore & aft bulkhead and doing surgery on the sole around the step, Anyone tried removing plywood head partition?? It is screwed into the main bulkhead with exposed screws like it was intended to be removable. Hopefully it was not glued and will come apart with a minimum of trauma. Will be pulling the stick to relieve the pressure on the post and step. Have looked at the example on projects but just don't see how you could cut the step away without doing surgery on the sole. Fortunately the sole looks like crap and was planning on redoing it anyway.
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Post by seaner97 on Jun 10, 2015 19:54:30 GMT -5
Can't get to it without removing the sole or the shower pan. The shower pan in mine appears to be screwed in, so it is possible that that could come up and give you enough access, although at a crap angle.
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Post by roverhi on Jun 14, 2015 17:13:00 GMT -5
False alarm. The wood block step is still in good shape. It is glassed in on three sides. Going through the sole hatch I could cut through the glass holding it in place. Fortunately it's not needed as feeling the step on the back unlamenated side, the wood still fells solid. Now the question is why did the head sliding door suddenly start to bind. Loosened the shrouds a bit to see if that would help but doesn't seem to make a difference. Feeling the glass around the step block, the glass stands about a 1/2" above the wood block. Almost like the block has settled by that amount. Can't be the case as the block sits parallel to the ballast support the wood is solid with no sign of rot. Suppose if I ever have nothing else to do, could pull the stick and add a 1/2" spacer to the top of the step block. That would take care of the door binding.
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Post by seaner97 on Jun 17, 2015 5:20:53 GMT -5
Just get some Cedar shingles and use them for shims for the time being. I'd be suspect that the wood block hasn't either rotted or become significantly compressed if you've got that kind of gap. I'll see what mine feels like next time I'm out. If you do replace, I'd go with a G10 block epoxied in place rather than screwing around with trying to glass something in. You should sound your deck around the mast- if your core got wet, that would explain the door binding.
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Post by seaner97 on Jun 25, 2015 20:04:06 GMT -5
Mine is solid glass all around, with no gap.
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Post by seaner97 on Jul 3, 2015 13:21:57 GMT -5
Did you figure it out?
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Post by seaner97 on Jul 3, 2015 13:34:07 GMT -5
When you do the sole, do the mast step at the same time. In retrospect, I wish I had, just to have the peace of mind. But I was up against a launch date, so didn't take the extra 2 days it would have taken.
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Post by gcastillo3 on Mar 1, 2016 18:47:45 GMT -5
It can be done through the sole hatch, but iits in comfortable .
Is no use to remove the bulkheads .
Since I'm remodeling I removed the head's door and wall. Then cut a hole throught the fiberglass below the inside of the bathroom cabinet and that gave me a nice view to the project and access.
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Post by gcastillo3 on Mar 1, 2016 18:48:14 GMT -5
It can be done through the sole hatch, but iits in comfortable .
Is no use to remove the bulkheads .
Since I'm remodeling I removed the head's door and wall. Then cut a hole throught the fiberglass below the inside of the bathroom cabinet and that gave me a nice view to the project and access.
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Post by gcastillo3 on Mar 2, 2016 18:47:46 GMT -5
Are the screws holding the compression post from above the deck also hold the mast base plate.
I need to remove the corroded compression post and I need to assess the risk of doing this without removing the mast. Thanks!
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Post by roverhi on Mar 3, 2016 22:46:07 GMT -5
It can be done through the sole hatch, but iits in comfortable . Is no use to remove the bulkheads . Since I'm remodeling I removed the head's door and wall. Then cut a hole throught the fiberglass below the inside of the bathroom cabinet and that gave me a nice view to the project and access. What was involved in removing the haha partition in the passage way.?? Looks it could be held in place with screws which would make it relatively easy if it wasn't also glued to the main bulkhead. Just reread your post you may have a later boat. My early boat's sole is wood except in the head. Were you talking about that fiberglass piece or do you have a complete fiber glass sole pan that most manufacturers went to.
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Post by gcastillo3 on Mar 4, 2016 23:11:16 GMT -5
I hage a 1977 vessel hull #367. The sole Is fiberglass.
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Post by gcastillo3 on Mar 4, 2016 23:20:24 GMT -5
To remove it, it involved removing screws from inside the head. Beware for screws placed before the laminate. I also removed four or five crews that attach the teak piece to the cabin top. I got frustrated with a couple of those screws so I just carefully forced it out. I did it this way because I have to remove the compression post and I'm remodeling. Otherwise I would have simply done it from the hatch. It's a pain but doable.
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Post by ixforese on Jul 5, 2019 5:46:18 GMT -5
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